Nartiang, Jaintia Hills

March is a lovely time to be on the hills of Meghalaya, when the climate is in one of its finest. The weather, enticing and the scenery, picturesque. On one such pleasant morning, I decided to take a trip to the Jaintia Hills District. It was lovely driving through the hills, stopping occasionally to capture the tranquil surroundings.

My destination was the Durga Temple, the Monoliths of Nartiang and farther east, the Thadlaskein Lake.

Starting from Shillong going East, on Jowai Road as the soft glow of morning sun bathed the lush green hills. Heavy traffic slowed us down to just 10 to 15 kilometres per hour at the beginning but gathered speed gradually as we proceeded after crossing the city limits.
Driving past villages and pine covered hills was gratifying.

A view of Nartiang village

Nartiang is around 65 kilometres from Shillong. This small village was the summer capital of the Jaintia kings. My first stop here was the Durga Temple. The original structure of the temple was similar to a typical Khasi house, with a thatched roof over a central wooden pillar. Later the thatch was replaced by a corrugated tin roof. It had been further modified and reconstructed by Ramakrishna Mission of Cherrapunjee in the year 1987 to preserve, protect and encourage the tradition, faith and culture of the people.

The temple stands today, nondescript, to tell the tale of  Hindu heritage of the Jaintia kingdom which dates back to around 1446 A.D. This 500 year old Durga temple is one of the "Shakti Peethas" of Hindu Mythology. Although Shakti Peethas are well known all over, this particular one is an exception.

Shakti Peetha : Legend has it that King Daksha never liked his son-in-law Lord Shiva who is dressed in leopard skin, snakes entwined his neck, body smeared with ash, matted hair and went around begging for alms. But he had to bow down to his daughter Sati's wish to be Shiva's wife. Soon after the marriage King Daksha went to pay his daughter and son-in-law a visit. It was at noon while Lord Shiva was taking a siesta. His attendants had refused to wake Shiva up. Daksha felt utterly humiliated thinking Shiva did it purposefully. Daksha disliked Shiva more now and waited for his opportunity to take revenge.

Daksha's opportunity to settle score came soon. He arranged for an elaborate performance of holy sacrificial ritual (Yajna). All important people were invited to the holy ceremony. All except Lord Shiva. Despite Shiva's forbiddance, Sati went to attend the holy ceremony. After all, Sati thought, she did not need an invitation to attend a function at her own father's home.

Daksha ridiculed Sati and belittled Lord Shiva in front of the guests as soon as Sati arrived. Unable to withstand the insult, Sati jumped into the sacrificial fire before the very eyes of the entire gathering that  stood watching in utter disbelief. Shiva was mad with rage when the news reached him. He held Sati's body up and started the "Tandava Nritya". Carrying the body of Sati he travelled from place to place, crossing hills, valleys and rivers. The world shook under Lord Shiva's fury. Frightened, the Gods went to Lord Vishnu for help. Vishnu released his "Sudarshana Chakra" which sliced parts of Sati's body. Gradually Shiva calmed down. The places where parts of Sati's body fell are known as 'Shakti Peetha". Temples are built on these spots and worshiped with great devotion.

Sati's left thigh had fallen on Nartiang, Jaintia Hills. Durga is known here as Jainteshwari. The other two Shakti Peethas of North East are Kamakhya at Guwahati, Assam and Tripura Sundari at Udaipur, Tripura.
The temple, which was a part of the fort of erstwhile Jaintia kingdom, was built by Jaintia King Dhan Manik. Goddess Durga appeared in his dream and narrated the significance of the place. The Goddess also asked him to build a temple on that particular spot. Following his dream the king built this temple.  King Jaso Manik had married Lakshmi Narayana, the daughter of Nara Narayana the Hindu King of Koch clan. It is believed that Lakshmi's influence was instrumental in Jaintia Royalties embracing Hinduism.

River Mintdu flows by the Durga temple

Rituals of this Durga temple is a blend of Hindu and ancient Jaintia tradition. There are some 500 odd Hindu families who live around Nartiang, come to worship in this temple. The chief patron is the Jaintia chieftain locally known as the Syiem.
The temple holds the same alter, idols and swords that were used for human sacrifice centuries ago before the idol of Goddess Durga. However, this practice was banned during the British rule.

The mask that is put on a goat during sacrifice.

The custom of sacrifice is on even today. On the 8th day of Durga Puja, Mahashtami, a goat is sacrificed, dressed in a 'dhoti' and human mask. The goat symbolizes a man, thus keeping the custom of human sacrifice. The heads of the sacrifices were disposed through an opening on the floor of the temple. This hole is linked with an underground tunnel which joins the river Mintdu. Same method is followed in the procedure of sacrifice and disposing the heads in the river even today.

The opening to dispose heads of the sacrificed.

A banana plant is dressed as Goddess Durga and worshiped during the ten days of Durga Puja and ceremoniously immersed in the river Mintdu with a gun fire salutation.
A family of priests from Ujjain looks after and performs the religious rituals of the temple. During my visit, I met the present priest Uttam Deshmukh. He could not recollect much of the history. Although said, he is the 29th generation of priests from his family.
A central Puja committee of the Hindu community in the state of Meghalaya takes care of the temple, including the maintenance. Devotees visit this temple from far and wide during the Durga Puja.

Getting into the car with my head full of history from the temple, I continued further up to north of Nartiang market. This place is known as Rawmulong, known for the Monoliths.
Monoliths exist throughout the length and breadth of the Khasi and Jaintia Hills. However, the biggest collections of Monoliths or Megalithic stones are found only here at Rawmulong, Nartiang.

The Monoliths consists of the Menhirs (the upright stones) locally known as Moo Shynrang (Men) and Dolmens (the flat stones in the horizontal position) known as Moo Kynthai (Women).

These Monoliths were erected approximately during 1500 A.D. and 1835 A.D. to commemorate the glorious events of the Jaintia Kingdom.

The tallest Menhir is known as Moo Long Syiem. It is 8 metres high and 18 inches thick. According to Jaintia legend, this was erected by a giant named Mar Phalyngki. U Mar Phalyngki was actually a trusted lieutenant of the Jaintia king. Moo Long Syiem was erected to commemorate the victory in a battle.

The other Monoliths were erected by U Mar Phalyngki, U Luh Lyngskor Lamare and various clans of Nartiang village.

The Dolmens or the women, are generally supported by 3 or more stones on end.

It is indeed overwhelming to walk along the path way and find yourself amidst these Monoliths. They have survived the centuries and will continue to intrigue those who visit.

My next stop was at Thadlaskein Lake, a few kilometres further on Jowai National Highway 44. Its a beautiful man made lake.
Legend has it that Sajar Nangli, a Chieftain had an irreconcilable difference with the King of Jaintiapur.   To avoid an inevitable bloodbath he decided to flee from the Kingdom with his followers. However, he dug this lake along with his followers with the ends of their bows before departure. Thus it is believed that this lake was dug to commemorate their departure from the Kingdom.

Lake Thadlaskein is revered by the people of Raid Mukhla who continue to offer sacrifices near the lake. It has been recently renamed as Sajar Nangli Lake.
Its a popular picnic spot. Boating by evening is very pleasant with the cool breeze blowing in your hair and a few birds occasionally flying past.

The return drive was enjoyable with the day's knowledge fresh in my mind. I was lost in all that I learnt on this lovely day-long trip to Nartiang. Leaving behind the breathtakingly beautiful Pine forests, tiny villages with cozy cottages, I head back to Shillong.
As I thought of putting my camera back for the day, a few colourful fruit stalls by the side of the road caught my eyes. Stopping the car I got down to sample some local fruits.

Although looked delicious, this fruit was sour. Locally known as Sohshang.

This tastes super sour. Local name is Sohphie. The expression of my face made the young girls in the stall burst into a laughter as I took a bite on a Sohphie.

Ripe Sohphie was of course little less sour.

This looks so pretty. I bought a big bunch of this too but for hanging it as a decoration piece. Locally known as Sohtree. This one tastes awfully sour.

I must say, it was indeed a fruitful day!

Heritage in Harmony, The Raj Bhavan

This is the entrance gate. Its well-designed sandstone pillars and iron bars have remained ever imposing. They are witness to the history of Meghalaya and of the North-East.

The Heritage building with its six symmetrical spires

Amidst its picturesque lawns and pines, the Raj Bhavan at Shillong, Meghalaya, nostalgically brings to mind  the image of a Scottish manor. Its majestic grandeur and retinue of attendants are reminiscent of the times of the Raj.
Since 1874, Shillong has been the administrative headquarters of the North-East. After the creation of Meghalaya in 1972, Shillong was named its capital. Before Independence, the Raj Bhavan was known as Government House. This Government House was renamed as "Raj Bhavan" with effect from December 6th, 1951. It has undergone many significant changes over the years.

A view from the Upper Lawns

My first visit to this grand edifice of the Raj was in the year 1975, when I was a little girl. In my impressionable mind the magnificence and aesthetics of the building and its surroundings created a lasting impact. At that time, my father was posted to Shillong as the Chief Judicial Magistrate. Little did I know then that in the years to come, my own brother-in-law, His Excellency Mr Ranjit S Mooshahary would become the Governor of Meghalaya and the Raj Bhavan would be like a second home to me. Enchanted by the beauty of this bungalow and the rolling greens, I sought permission from my brother-in-law to document the Raj Bhavan and share with others.

The front view

Saturday, 12th June 1897, was a clear sunny day. The beautiful hill-station was preparing for the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria and everyone was looking forward to the festivities. People had gone outdoors for recreation and leisure when the earthquake struck at 5.15 pm. The impact was so immense that virtually every other masonry building in Shillong was laid flat instantly. Sir Henry Cotton, the then Chief Commissioner and Lady Cotton had a narrow escape on that fateful day. They were in the porch just boarding the open single horse carriage for their evening drive as the house collapsed. The pony bolted, with them, towards the main gate, while the house crumbled in heaps behind them.

The building was reconstructed and occupied in 1903-04 after the destruction of the Chief Commissioner's Residency in the earthquake. The entire structure is designed to resist the frequent tremors that Shillong is prone to and also reduce damage in case of a collapse. The roofing materials are teak shingles and the walls are mix of teak-wood and ekra reeds covered by cement plaster; the ceilings are teak-ply supported by sturdy beams from below. It is more than a century old and one of the most well-maintained heritage buildings left in the state now. 

The drive way to the Raj Bhavan goes past the old Jet Fighter-Gnat IE1210-gifted by the Indian Air Force. On the right are the tennis courts and the upper lawns and the Governor's Secretariat.

One of the four fountains that intersperse the lawns

A view of the rolling greens 

On the left of the drive, to the House are the well-manicured sprawling lawns sloping down the wall that separates the grounds from Bivar and Camel Back Roads.

The swans seem to be alarmed by the commotion.

Proceeding along the driveway, one can truly appreciate nature's beauty. A creative touch of the human mind enhances the landscape. There are also birds, fishes and fowls besides the flowers, trees and vegetables of manifold varieties abounding the sprawling space.

The landscape visible from the driveway

The walk-way behind the main building

A side view

The porch (front view from the lawns)

The first six steps from the porch lead you inside. One can see the shining brass cannons on left and right mounted on the veranda. The cannon on the right has "9th Feb 1803" and the one on the left "28th February 1815" inscribed on their barrels.

One of the brass cannons

The Lobby.

Then you step into the lobby. There too is a sleek brass cannon with something in Persian written on it. Then there are scores of other brass vessels with indoor plants, paintings and photographs on the walls around. At the centre of the lobby stands a traditional Indian brass lamp stand as seen here.
The office of Aide de Camp opens on the left. On the wooden beam over the main entrance are the words of the great Ahom Commander, Lachit Barphukan: "My uncle is not greater than my country".

Then you step into the corridors (of power?). Panelled with wood, both sides of this long corridor are embellished with a number of photographs, paintings and curios.

The brass Buddha encircled by a pair of curved ivory

The most striking feature is of course the brass Buddha mounted on a raised wooden box encircled by two curved ivory. Above this is the framed sketch of Buddha with his message: "Whatsoever you find to be conducive to the common good, benefit and welfare of all beings, take it as guide." In fact, this photograph is also seen in all the guest rooms.
From there, the access to the whole building is open. On the left is the office of the Governor, the private dining room, guest rooms, Durbar hall, and Billiard room; the multipurpose hall gymnasium and the memorabilia hall are outside in a separate building. In the front are the banquet hall, library and main lounge. The private quarters are beyond these rooms to the east.

The brass bell on the corridor

This is the door to the office of His Excellency, the Governor. The wood panelled room inside is decorated with paintings, photographs of all the Presidents of India and the present Prime Minister.

The list of Chief Commissioners, Lt. Governors and Governors

One of the first rooms to the east of the corridor is the Library. It has collection of some extremely rare books. The kind of books and journals on official and administrative matters, flora and fauna available here are not easily found elsewhere.

The Grand Piano at the Raj Bhawan is as old as the building itself. Yet it is in excellent functional condition. It is being used occasionally. My fondest memory of this treasured antique is of my daughter reigning in the new year celebrations, playing mesmerizing numbers on it.

This is part of the main living room that can seat up to 40 people.

The other part of the sitting room

This is a fine room with large French windows that open into the courtyard full of flowering shrubs and trees. This room is mainly used for formal occasions. The wood panelled upper walls and elegantly worked wooden high ceiling add to the beauty of this room.

The part of the Banquet Hall where 30 people can dine together. This hall is one of the finest rooms in the House. A wide variety of silver crockery, wine glasses and goblets add to the elegance and charm of this historical house. This dining hall is used for all formal occasions such as State Dinners. The teak table and period chairs add an antique feel. In the days gone by this hall was used as Ball Room and another room was added adjacent to it as the Council Hall before the Assembly building was constructed.

A partial view of the pantry. Equipped with all modern facilities, it serves as the holding space during big gets-together. The two kitchens, one for the family and the other down the stairs, for special occasions, are behind this. Kitchens and pantry have been remodelled providing sky-lights, elegant flooring and cupboards.

The private dining space for eight people. It is entirely a wooden structure with vintage gloss, surrounded by decorative silver wares and curios.

This is one of the guest rooms I love to stay in during my visits to the Raj Bhavan. Apart from the Governor's private apartments, there are seven guest rooms in the house. The best one is the Presidential Suite for visiting Heads of States and Governments. All the interiors have been redone aesthetically keeping in view the ethnic heritage and modern needs.

This is a partial view of the Durbar Hall where important functions like swearing-in ceremonies of the Governors and Ministers are held. It has been completely renovated. A congregation of 300 people can be seated here comfortably. It has a balcony each on the left side and behind.

A part of the Durbar Hall, this is Band Gallery upstairs at one end of the hall. Adjacent to that space there is also a room where attendants accompanying important guests can stay.

The Billiard Room

This is gymnasium and memorabilia hall. It has number of mementos and gift articles which the present Governor has received during the course of his public engagements. This badminton and table-tennis hall at times are used for cultural and social occasions as well. Here I am getting all fit on an exercycle.

The illuminated main building

Front view

On Republic Day and Independence Day the Raj Bhavan and the lawns are illuminated for two days. The present Governor has allowed public visit on those days. Hundreds of people come and enjoy the sparkling splendour on these evenings without any restrictions at all. 

The old Jet Fighter Gnat IE1210 on the left and one of the fountains on the right can be seen here

The main entrance

The Governor, Ranjit S Mooshahary and the Lady Governor Rema Mooshahary, (in bright pink shawl behind) are seen greeting guests during one of the At Homes.


One of the important functions held in the lawns of the Raj Bhavan is the Governor's At Home. Held twice a year on the occasions of Republic Day and Independence Day, a large number of senior officials and important public personalities are invited for this occasion. Unlike in other Raj Bhavans where At Home is held in the afternoons, at Shillong it is at 1100 hrs to 1230 hrs in the warm sun.

This is one of the most beautiful Raj Bhavans in the country. (Even the swans are so exhilarated  here.) The present residents have done their bit to preserve and enrich this heritage site. A beautiful marble plaque embedded on the wall of the Lobby, titled "Heritage In Harmony" is placed below that succinctly speaks of the grandeur of this magnificent property.